Milano Recs Curated For Your Pleasure
I went to Milan for fashion and food and design and pleasure and I loved it. Here are my recs!
Where to have a slow start to your day
Is there anything sexier than taking your goddamn time in the morning? Linger in bed and then linger over coffee at these spots.
Via Stampa: this place had the most amazing bread and morning spread. Honestly the bread kinda ruined the rest of the day’s bread for me: what’s given for the table to scarpetta with is often a bit lackluster. But I still had bread three times daily, don’t worry! They’re also open lunch & dinner.
Pasticceria Gattullo: very classic old school spot to sit for coffee and pastry, but they’re open all day and for aperitivo, too :)
What To See
The largely unremarkable facades of Milan, I think, are what make many tourists say you should skip this city as a destination. It is very much a place you need to do a little work to get past the surface. Which I like, I enjoy a challenge. Lots of the beauty of Milan is tucked away in courtyards, past gates, inside cafes and restaurants, so remember this, and go a little deeper, take your time, seduce it into letting you in.
Marchesi 1824: Having a cappucino here is a must—and make sure you go to the location in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II for the views. Get chocolates too pretty to eat as gifts to take home to lovers.
GAM Galleria d’Arte Moderna: modern art housed in a historic villa. Worth a wander.
LuBar: in the courtyard of GAM, stop for a lunch or espresso, ask to sit inside that’s where it’s vibiest.
Villa Necchi Campiglio: I didn’t realize Luca Guadagnino’s I Am Love was filmed here until I was here (I was on a Luca kick over summer and watched the Desire Trilogy, highly recommend.) This place is magic! Attention to design detail made me hold my breath. It’s like stepping into a perfectly preserved insanely stylish time capsule.
Stop by to see the flamingos nearby at Villa Invernizzi. You can’t go in but you can see these weird birds through the gate.
Casa Museo Boschi Di Stefano: another preserved home full of art. This one’s walls are positively dripping with it. Smaller and more compact than Villa Necchi but also worth a visit.
Where To Shop
Milan is a fashion capital of the world and you can feel it radiating from everyone. I especially appreciate this in the men there—it is not uncommon to see a man in his 60s/70s riding a bike in an impeccably tailored suit. That’s dedication! So obviously there are a TON of places to shop. I tend to skip the big names and dig up vintage and local spots. These were my favorites.
Sous Vintage Shop: well-priced excellently curated vintage pieces. Star on butt skirt!
Vintage Eyeglasses Photo Veneta Optics: They put modern lenses into vintage frames! My boyfriend bought a very sexy pair of wooden frame sunglasses from the 60s here. Amazing staff who gave us local recs.
Wait and See, clothing store: This is where I bought my tiger-face undies.
The Cloister: a gorgeous space and even better store design—mix of men’s and women’s vintage pieces. Spent a long time here.
Patrizia Pepe: crisp tailoring and subtly slutty designs.
Where to take on the national pastime of aperitivo (drinks and small bites to tide you over until dinner at 9pm) AKA the sexiest part of your day
The people watching in Milano is unparalleled. People are sexy and elegant. They move with grace. They are dressed to fucking impress. They give a shit about appearance and grace. It’s really something to behold. And the best time to do it is aperitivo, when everyone gets off work and begins to let loose. You can feel the relaxation and pleasure. It’s slow. It’s sensual. It’s studded with cigarettes. There is no concern about getting home in time to do a 12 step skincare routine. These people know how to LIVE and to me, that’s an indication they know how to fuck.
10 Corso Como: The jungly courtyard of the namesake concept store is a fashion paradise at aperitivo hour. Everyone is beautiful and everything is, too.
Pasticceria Cucchi: This was one of the unlikeliest scenes. A classic spot that you can feel the decades in—the clientele was young, gorgeous, and impeccably dressed. Prime people watching from outdoor seats, in fact, you must sit outdoors or nowhere. Follow the vibes! With your aperitivo order they’ll bring a tiered platter of small bites. Very cute.
Bar Basso: Infamous for “inventing” the Negroni Sbagliato (okay!) they serve cocktails in glasses bigger than your head. An indoor/outdoor situation, but if it’s warm enough, sit outside and smoke a skinny cig and make some friends. I saw everyone from blue collar paint-smeared men to posh middle aged women drinking the enormous drinks.
La Manierina Milano: dark, cozy and neighborhood-y this is a romantic spot for aperitivo vs the others above which are much more a people watching circle jerk (complimentary) It’s where to go to focus on your company, not drool over the competition.
Where to have dinner
Dinner in Milan is an EVENT and it starts at 9pm and goes late and ideally is taken outdoors. Saucy, rich, decadent—every meal was an experience in indulgence.
Osteria Del Binari: A sprawling indoor and outdoor situation (we chose to eat outside because the weather was perfect) Elevated icons and a serious wine list. This was reco’d by a friend who used to live in Milan and it felt very much like the place you take a visitor to impress.
Al Matarel: Well known for the Milan classics (osso buco and veal Milanese) I was honestly floored by the house salumi and picked veg we ordered to start. That could have been my whole meal. There’s a vintage jukebox here and a sexy waiter who will give you a coin to play something…story coming soon.
La Latteria: This is a mom and pop shop that somehow has drawn the likes of Dua Lipa (our waiter produced a photo of him with her lol) We loved that he said everyone waits in line. Including Dua Lipa! They open at 7 which is their first seating, and a queue even earlier is not uncommon. No reservations. Order the grilled veal. And delight in the nonnas serving you fully in Italian and encouraging you to scarpetta.
Where to eat gelato
Sorry no pics, ice creams were ATE immediately.
Gelateria Umberto 1934 Milano: does not seem to be updated much since 1934 babes! This place is known for their affogato, but their regular conos are good, too.
VERO ~ Gelateria Cremeria: Interesting and seasonal flavors like fig, melon, dark chocolate and mint & basil, this is a more modern gelato spot but equally divine.
There are literally gelato options on every street but somebody told me the legit places do not display their gelato, they keep it under metal covers—the tourist spots are more apt to show the heaping, decorative ice cream, and I let that lead me :)
Where to go late
Est Bar: spilling out onto the street vibes. Beautiful people, and very upbeat atmosphere.
Bar Quadronno: They serve drinks and coffee all day here, but the paninos are really the draw and a good option for a post drinking meal, they’re open until 2am. I watched an older gentleman order one sandwich, eat it, and then swiftly order another and eat it. There is a “dealer’s choice” panino option which I found intriguing but ultimately did not order. You should though and then tell me about it.
Where to Stay
My one disappointment with Milan happened before I arrived—there is a pretty gaping lack of mid-range hotel options. You’re either staying at The Bulgari Hotel for ten million dollars a night or you’re staying somewhere not that cute for $500 which is still costly and so SHOULD be cuter.
We ultimately went with an AirBnB in Brera for this reason along with the fact that I found a gorgeous light filled spot with a ton of books and I think reading is sexy.
xxx